Most visitors to Sarawak never get as far as Lawas. It sits in the state’s far north, close to the Sabah border and a short distance from Brunei, and it is the kind of town people tend to drive through on a long journey rather than plan a trip around. That is a shame. Lawas has a lively market, a strong Lun Bawang culture, and one of the most distinctive highland communities in Borneo within reach. It is also one of the most practical bases in the north if your route takes you between Sarawak, Brunei and Sabah. This guide covers what to see, how Lawas connects to its neighbours, and where to stay.
Where Is Lawas?
Source: Wikimedia
Lawas is a district town in Sarawak’s Limbang Division, in the north of the state. It lies close to Sarawak’s border with Sabah to the north-east and with Brunei to the west, which is why the town has long served as a stopping point for people travelling between the three. Roxy Hotel Lawas describes itself as Northern Sarawak’s gateway to Brunei and Limbang, and that is a fair summary of where the town fits on the map.
The town is built along the Lawas River, a short way inland, and is home to a mix of communities including Lun Bawang, Malay, Chinese and Bisaya families. That mix shows most clearly in the food and in the market.
The Lawas Market
Source: Wikimedia
The town’s market is the best single place to see Lawas at work. Traditionally it is busiest from Friday evening through Saturday morning, when growers and traders from the surrounding area bring in fresh vegetables, fruit, jungle produce and handicrafts. Look out for highland products that are hard to find elsewhere, such as Ba’kelalan salt and adan rice, a fragrant rice grown in the Lun Bawang highlands.
Market days and stall mixes change, so it is worth asking at your hotel for the current pattern on the day you arrive. Go early, bring cash, and leave time to simply wander.
Beyond the Town: The Ba’kelalan Highlands
Source: Wikimedia
The most distinctive thing about Lawas is what lies behind it. Ba’kelalan is a remote highland farming community in the interior, home to the Lun Bawang people and known for its cool climate, its rice terraces and its salt springs. For most visitors, the practical way in is a short flight on a small aircraft from Lawas, although overland routes by four-wheel drive also exist.
This is not a quick day trip. Flights are limited, weather can change plans, and homestay accommodation is simple. If a highland stay appeals, plan it well ahead, confirm flight schedules directly with the operator, and treat Lawas as the comfortable base you return to before and after.
Lawas as a Crossing Point: Brunei, Limbang and Sabah
Lawas is useful for the roads that meet here as much as for the town itself. Heading east, the route leads towards Sabah, and heading west it leads towards Limbang and Brunei. Because the road to Limbang has traditionally passed through Brunei, travellers should carry passports and check current border arrangements before setting out. Opening hours and procedures at crossings can change, so confirm them close to your travel date rather than relying on an older guide.
For travellers from Brunei, Lawas makes a natural overnight stop for a longer Sarawak trip, and for drivers heading between Miri, Limbang and Sabah, it breaks up what would otherwise be a long day on the road.
Check before you go
Border opening hours, vehicle insurance and permits if you are driving across.
Carry
Passports, vehicle documents and some ringgit in cash.
Allow extra time
Crossings can be slow at weekends and public holidays.
Where to Stay:
Roxy Hotel Lawas
Roxy Hotel Lawas is located at Lawas Square on Jalan Lawas Damit, in the town centre, with comfortable rooms and suites for both short stopovers and longer stays. It suits road-trippers breaking a long drive, business travellers, families visiting relatives, and anyone using Lawas as a base for the highlands. Guests booking direct through the Roxy Hotels website can take advantage of the current direct-booking saving.
Book a room at Roxy Hotel Lawas.
Practical Tips
Confirm drive times, flight schedules and border procedures close to your date; they change more often than guidebooks do.
Bring cash, since smaller stalls and eateries often do not take cards.
Pack for rain; northern Sarawak is humid, and downpours are common at any time of year.
If you are heading to the highlands, travel light, as small aircraft have strict baggage limits.
Plan your stay in Lawas
Comfortable rooms and suites in the town centre, the practical base for northern Sarawak, Brunei and Sabah.
